How to open Evince with reasonable sidebar size?

When I start evince 46.0 (PDF viewer) on Ubuntu 24.04, the sidebar is too narrow. How can I start evince with a wider sidebar? I tried to change it via GNOME settings but this doesn’t work:

$ gsettings set org.gnome.Evince.Default sidebar-size 300
$ gsettings get org.gnome.Evince.Default sidebar-size
148

As you can see, GNOME respectfully completes a settings command without errors. But is ultimately not particularly interested in the value that I put in.

What is the best way to start evince with a wider sidebar?